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🤢 2/5 - Sorry, all.
By 👻 @gabriel s., 02/27/2023 3:00 am
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As lovely as the staff at KinKan is, and as warm as the space aspires to be--and as caught up in momentary delusions as some of the reviewers on here seem to be--KinKan was a disaster from a culinary perspective, at least on the night we went (a Thai prix fixe).In essence, beneath their presentation, which often strained badly to look artful, the twelve or so dishes--a few spoons of food a piece--captured pretty basic Thai flavors (Here's the lemongrass dish! Here's chili! Here's coconut curry!) that you could find blocks away in Thai town with more flair and at 1/10th the price. The shtick seemed to be a) the aforementioned presentation (yawn), and b) using fine ingredients, the particularities of which were just buried under whatever basic flavor was dominating the dish. Frankly, it felt like precocious youthful chefs, in admittedly good faith, thinking they were helping you "discover" Thai flavors that are in fact pretty common just about everywhere, not doing a great job at it, but also making wealthy patrons feel comfortable and proud by dressing those flavors up in fancy and fashionable threads. And yes, you will leave very hungry, and wondering why this parade of middling Thai appetizers set you back two hundred dollars a pop. One hopes the Japanese nights here are better.But a lot of work left if this place wants to survive.
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