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😒 3/5 - I've never been truly exciting about dining in Destin, and
By 👻 @Justin L., 03/05/2010 3:00 am
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I've never been truly exciting about dining in Destin, and would usually beg to take a longer drive to Seaside, but felt lucky to find them open for a Monday business trip. The decor is so unlike any of the original Commander's dining rooms, but appropriate for a beach location. It is very formal with and has very amusing bright colors. The view of the pass would be impressive in daytime, and was very romantic in the evening.The service was great, and will please anyone who thinks exceptional service is crucial. I was just there to eat. They offered additional sherry to the turtle soup, which I accepted, and thought this was as fabulous as any New Orleans favorites from childhood. Without the sherry, the flavors would be appropriate for someone wanting a very subtle, dish.There were three recommended dishes on the chef's three course tasting menu. I could not resist the veal because I don't see it on menus often. The meat was certainly tender, but was a thicker boneless loin cut that was placed on top of their root vegetables which really was no different than ordinary mashed potatoes. The flavors from the demi glace, onions and bacon were adequate, but not mindblowing. Such delicate meat loses something when so clumsily stacked on a mess of vegetables. When I have the opportunity to really try something new, I want to see something thoughtful, challenging and new. In the sense that I wanted to discover something, I was disappointed. The food was adequate, and I don't feel like it was overpriced, but for presentation and overall flavor, I can't say this was a great experience.To add insult to injury, I was dining with my almost grown kids who would have been happy with pub food across the street, but were being good sports. They both had Filet Mignon, which isn't even worth commenting on. Steaks really weren't a big deal in haute creole cuisine until well into the 20th century, and it took me a while to grow up and learn that the established New Orleans are not really the place for steaks. We all had a good time with cocktails and the view, and the atmosphere did make it a special evening. Even though chef Tory is widely held as one of Commander's best chefs ever, I can't highly praise the food. When it comes to flavors and presentation Commander's may not be willing to move into the modern world, and maybe they shouldn't. I'll just prefer to have Commander's in New Orleans, where the atmosphere is such a tangible part of a lasting memory making experience.
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