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😍 5/5 - A perfect litle gem!
By 👻 @Julian F, 12/08/2019 3:00 am
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We had a fairly early reservation at 104 last Thursday evening at 7.30pm and the restaurant was still quiet when we arrived. One other table was in situ and the rest filled up over the two-and-a-half hours we were in the restaurant, during which time we never felt rushed, and, as other reviewers have mentioned, since 104 only caters to about a dozen covers, "filling up" still felt like being in a very intimate and almost private dining space. 104's room is necessarily small but it is nicely proportioned with classy low-key decor and you certainly don't feel in any way cramped although the environment for talking is quite muted simply as a result of the small number of people in the room and a slight feeling, at least at first, that you could easily be the loudest person in the room with your conversation audible and probably irritating to other diners. Happily, we quickly felt at ease in the very relaxed and friendly atmosphere after we were warmly greeted by Matt on solo front of house duty, who offered us water and aperitifs whilst we looked over the menu which contrived to be both short at two pages and yet still full of dilemma as to choice. We had champagne by the glass to start, a Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs, which combined richness with both dryness and minerality in very good balance and seemed good value at £15 a (generous) glass. My companion stayed on champagne for the rest of her meal as it proved to be both an excellent aperitif and a perfect pairing for fish whilst I was able to try Matt's suggestions of both a white wine and a red wine from 104's nicely-varied wine list during the meal. A very positive note on wine is that Matt confided that, although there were only a small number of wines which were listed by the glass as well as by the bottle, he was happy to open any bottle and sell it by the glass (although I feel he might draw the line on that approach before the top-priced £6,000 a bottle Domaine Romanée-Conti but maybe not). As to the menu, we were sorely tempted, and Matt tried so hard to persuade us, to go for the £110 five-course tasting menu, liberally laced throughout with Alba white truffle and Schrenkii caviar, and comprising courses of Orkney hand-dived scallops, Native blue lobster, Cornish turbot, red deer loin, and Valrhona chocolate moelleux. He almost had me with the amazing aroma of the formidable white truffle which he showed us but we decided that the five courses would be too much and too rich for us. And, as most of the dishes on the tasting menu were available in either the same or slightly altered form (without truffle or caviar although these could be added at extra cost) on the £42.50 three-course dinner menu, and this menu seemed more than adequate in both choice of dishes and capacity to satisfy our appetites, we went for that and tbh it was the right choice for us. As we had dithered, Matt had brought us lovely, delicate and very tasty cheese tartlets with the thinnest of thin pastry as a pre-starter and he kept us supplied with home-made dark sourdough bread, excellent butter and chatty interaction at just the right frequency throughout the meal. As first course, I had Scottish langoustine, meaty and full of flavour with spiced puy lentils and a rich bisque emulsion (which carried a £12 supplement) along with a lovely glass of fresh and creamy Laderas de Leonila, an organic, low sulphite, bio-dynamic white wine, blending Doña Blanca, Godello and Palomino grape varietals, from Bierzo in Galicia whilst my companion had a beautiful, golden-yolked, poached Burford Brown hen's egg with shiitake mushrooms, an earthy jerusalem artichoke puree and a sprinkling of piment d'Espelette which cried out, as Matt had said it would, to have had white truffle shaved over it but, alas, my companion had demurred from adding it, something she admitted to regretting after the fact. As main course, I had red deer loin, perfectly cooked and amazingly tender, with creamy caramelised celeriac, sweet brussels sprouts and rich grand veneur sauce along with two glasses of a Côtes du Rhône red blend which brought Grenache, Syrah and old vine Carignan grape varietals together very nicely whilst my companion had a very light and pleasant dish of Cornish turbot with spinach and champagne sauce. We decided to split our final course into two parts. First, we shared an excellent selection of four cheeses (which carried an £8 supplement), French according to the menu (but iirc what Matt said, three French and one Belgian, albeit only just), one soft and mellow in flavour, one soft and full in flavour, one hard and very deeply flavoured (like an aged Gouda) and one blue and spicy, accompanied by black grapes and rye crackers. Then, we finished off with a rich, indulgent and delicious Valrhona 70% warm chocolate moelleux with Madagascan vanilla ice cream and Matt brought another extra treat to go with it, two light and fluffy madeleines warm from the oven. By the end of the meal, we were fully satisfied and convinced that our initial selection of the three- (or really two and two-halves-) course menu had been right for us. At the end of the meal, Richard came out of the kitchen to thank us personally for eating at 104 which was a nice touch and, at £100 per head, including 12.5% service, my companion and I both felt the meal had been excellent value for money and had definitively established 104 as a place for a return visit.
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